Archive for November, 2007

Back in Denmark

Friday, November 30th, 2007

I’m back in Denmark now. I started Thursday morning from the motel north of Würzburg, with frost on the motorcycle. Fortunately, it started promptly, but it was a cold start of the day.

Frozen motorcycle

When I started the thermometer on the dashboard showed 0° C, but as I moved northward it became milder, and most of the day I had 5-10° C and could put on a bit more speed.

The first time I had to get gasoline, I couldn’t open the gas tank lid. The key wouldn’t get all the way in. I had to warm the key in my hands to heat it enough to melt the droplet of ice in the lock.

I almost missed the exit towards Kassel, and did some fairly stupid manoeuvres at the exit to get back on track.

Close to Hamburg I saw a motorbike or large scooter on the motorway, but it turn off the motorway before I could have a look. It is the only two wheeler I have seen since I left Italy.

North of Hamburg it started to rain and it got dark, so I had to slow down again. I only had about 100 km to the border, so I just drove with the lorries at their speed.

I had rain and wet roads all the way up Jutland. My destination was Videbæk between Herning and Ringkøbing, which is were my wife works. The last 100 kms were on main roads in the countryside, which wasn’t a nice experience. The lorries drive fast there too, and when they pass you in the opposite direction, they create a forceful drag full of water droplets they lift from the wet road. Its like getting sprayed in the face with high pressure water.

Würzburg to Videbæk (850km):

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Now I’m relaxing a bit here in Jutland. It seems like I will be driving to Copenhagen on Tuesday, based on the weather forecasts. It’ll be the only day without too much rain and wind in the coming week.
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Cold and slow

Wednesday, November 28th, 2007

I’m on my way back to Denmark. I started Monday from Rome and made it to Venice, where I had to wait for the next day to pick up my bag, and send a few things back to Palermo. Tuesday afternoon at 17:30 I was back on the motorway heading home.

The first part of the journey, from Venice to Trento, was OK. The weather was fine and I made good progress. As I started to climb up towards the Brenner pass, and night fell, it started to get really cold. Nominally it wasn’t really that cold, maybe 5°C, but add the chill factor of 150 km/h and you’ll start to feel it a bit. It was dark too so I had to slow down, but at least then I could feel my fingers just a little bit.

I’ve never seen snow clad mountains at night before. Its a very special sight, quite impressive.

When I reached the pass at about eleven in the evening, it started to snow too. I still had 25 km to reach Innsbrück and its definitely the first time ever I’ve been driving at 40 km/h on an almost deserted motorway, being overtaken by the occasional long haul lorry. Driving a motorcycle at midnight in pitch darkness on a mountain motorway while its snowing is not my kind of fun. Actually, it wasn’t fun at all.

I was so eager to get off the motorway that I just picked the first exit that said Innsbrück, which happened to dump me on some deserted mountain road some 5 km south of the city, so I spend another half an hour crawling down the hair pin turns towards the city further down the valley. It was one at night before I had found a hotel and a bed.

This morning I started from Innsbrück and I’ve just been following the E45 all the time. For a Dane with a Sicilian wife the E45 is all you need to know. It starts in Sicily and winds it’s way up Italy, Austria, Germany to Denmark, from where it continues to Nordkapp in Norway.

It was still very cold this morning, and I didn’t dare go too fast, in case there was ice on the road, so I just stayed in the outer lane with all the lorries, doing 90-100 km/h. After about half an hour my fingers were so cold they started to pain, and I had to stop to warm them with some coffee. Most of the day has been like that. Half an hour on the road and half an hour in an auto-grill warming up again.

I found a little thermometer in a shop on the road, and glued it to the dashboard. Its been 3-5°C most of the day, but the temperature dropped a bit at sunset, to 1-2°C at 17:30. I don’t want to drive in the dark if the temperatures drop below zero, so I’m now at a motel on the A7/E45 just north of Würzburg.

This must be the slowest motorcycle journey I have even done. I have managed to do just 400 km on Tuesday, and another 400 km today, so I still have over 600 km before I’m home. I should be home tomorrow, though, because the weather forecasts promise milder weather in northern Germany than in the south. I do, however, risk getting some rain tomorrow.

I don’t dare think about how I look on the road. I have so many layers of clothes on. First I have a set of Merino wool leggings and shirt, then a fleece jacket, then a jogging set, then my old Dainese leather suit and over that my new Kokatat anorak. I wear two sets of gloves, a woolen set under the leather gloves, and still my hands get as frozen as glacial ice. My feet get cold too, because I haven’t brought woolen socks, but they’re not as exposed as the hands. I close the fleece and jogging jackets all the way up, then put a Kokatat turtleneck on top, and close the anorak all the way up to my nose. I also put on the hood under the helmet. It gives me a burka like field of vision, but it is great for keeping out the cold. Driving like that I’m not all that cold, except for my hands.

Here’s the fully loaded motorbike. The rucksack on the top contains the stuff I sent to Palermo, so its not with me anymore. I’ve had quite a bit of problems getting my Avatak Aleutina paddle to sit there, but I think I have sorted it out. At least its still with me.

Two wheel lorry

The days on Google maps

Venice to Innsbück (376km)

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Innsbrück to Wurzburg (450km)

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Motorway day

Monday, November 26th, 2007

I’m sitting in a very cheap hotel room, clean though, in Mestre. I’m here to pick up the stuff Wendy and I left here when we departed for Sardinia in September. Back them we expected to return on our way back north after a successful journey, but a capricious Fortuna wanted it otherwise.

Tomorrow I will meet up with my friend Marco and go to the Lido where my monster bag is kept.

The trip here was quite eventless. Traffic on the motorways were surprisingly light, except on the last part. The motorway Milan-Venice never rests, apparently.

I made a regular stop on the motorway near Arezzo, for coffee and gasoline. When I came out of the shop a police car drove slowly by, apparently having a close look by my motorcycle. It stopped a little bit ahead and waited. As I got ready to roll over for gasoline, another police car did the same. It stopped besides the first. Only as I drove by the two police cars did I understand what they were doing.

Two weeks ago a young man, a fan of the Lazio soccer team, was shot dead just there, in front of the shop, as he was sitting in a car with his friends. The killer was a policeman who shot from a distance of 200m, warning shots, he claimed. Circumstances are still unclear, but the policeman is indicted for manslaughter.

Just in front of the two police cars were an improvised memorial for the young man, made of flowers, photos and blue/white Lazio sharves, caps, banners and other soccer fan accessories.

Monument to Gabriele

Fortuna is not always a welcome visitor.


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Dig and you will find

Friday, November 23rd, 2007

Whenever people put a shovel in the ground in Rome they’ll hit something ancient. It is not restricted to the centre of the city. Here in the surroundings of Grottaferrata, some 25 km outside Rome, the same thing happens too. Shortly before I arrived, a stretch of ancient Roman road was unearthed just a few hundred meters from where my friends live.

Roman road at Grottaferrata Roman road at Grottaferrata Roman road at Grottaferrata

It is probably not an important find in itself, but it will still have to be examined, measured and mapped as it will be yet another little piece of the puzzle of reconstructing the ancient road network in the area.

To my untrained eye it doesn’t seem to be a stretch of a longer continuous paved road. An exploratory ditch has been made uphill with nothing in it, while the road seems to continue downhill where the paving probably continues under the modern road and the villas across that. As such, my guess is that this is a paved stretch of an old dirt road (most ancient roads were dirt roads) where it was prone to flooding. There are still several currents in the area which floods even the modern roads at times, and that problem must have been worse back then. By paving the stretches of the road most at risk of flooding the road would be usable for larger parts of the year.

For the present day owners of the land the road was found in, the find is probably a major pain the butt. Now their building project will be stalled indeterminately, waiting for the archaeologists to finish, which might take ages. After all, everything here in Italy might take ages.

Seeing that the Roman road continues straight under the current road and probably under the villas on the other side of the road, it is amazing it hasn’t been found before, but the explanation might be found in the previous paragraph :-/

Photos were taken with my mobile phone which has a lousy camera.

Lupercale

Wednesday, November 21st, 2007

Lupercale - photo from Repubblica.itIt was all over the news here in Italy last night. Apparently archaeologists in Rome have found the Lupercale on the Palatine hill.

This is incredible news for anybody interested in ancient history.

The Lupercale is legendary in more than one way. For the ancient Romans it was the cave under the Palatine hill where the shewolf (lupa) suckled the two abandoned twins Romulus and Remus. Romulus and Remus then grew up and founded the city of Rome on April 21st, 753 BC. In a fight over leadership Romulus then killed Remus, and the city was henceforth called Rome after Romulus who became the first King of Rome. The Lupercale was therefore considered the very birthplace of Rome and was considered a sacred site.

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Homeward bound

Tuesday, November 20th, 2007

Cold day on the motorwayI’m on my way north now. I left Palermo Sunday evening with the ferry to Naples, from where I went by motorbike to Rome. The crossing was eventless, the ferry mostly empty. The ferry arrived in Naples early, around 6:30, and I was on the motorway before seven, as the sun rose over the Appenines. It was quite pretty, but also very cold. I had to stop every half hour to warm my hands with some coffee in the Autogrills along the way.

I’m staying with some very dear friends whom I haven’t seen for several years now. Now is the time to make up for that error of omission.

It is also the time to change tires on the motorcycle, which means that I will stay here in Rome at least until Friday morning.

A day in Palermo

Friday, November 16th, 2007

A few days ago I went for a walk here in Palermo, and I took some photos along the way. The road was from Piazza Don Bosco towards Piazza Noce and back.Bending fence
A funny bending fence

Sidewalk
A nice calm sidewalk without parked cars

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This is where mafiosi shot down Cesare Terranova and his driver Lenin Mancuso in 1979. It is just in front of a public school.

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This is one of the major roads in Palermo, the Via Autonomia Siciliana.

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The Via Autonomia Sicilia was supposed to intersect the Via della Libertà here, but unfortunately this Art Nouveau house was in the way, and it still is.

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Via della Libertà was once lined with beautiful Art Nouveau villas, but now only a handful survives between the concrete buildings.

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Creative parking on the Via della Libertà. That’s what side walks are for, right?

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In 1980 the president of the Autonomous Region of Sicily, Piersanto Mattarella, was shot down in front of his home on the Via della Libertà. A hard to see plaque commemorates the victim.

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Relatives of his still seem to live in the house.

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When a city has garbage containers standing along the main road, it can just as well make a statement of it.

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This road is named after one of the old Sicilian princes, the upper caste of the aristocracy. His title was Duca della Verdura, literally Duke of Vegetables. He was probably powerful enough that people wouldn’t laugh.

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Persons in wheel chairs often have a hard time in Palermo. The rods are there to keep cars and scooters out, but they also keep others out as well.

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This is where judge Giovanni Falcone lived on Via Notarbartolo. Falcone was kill with a massive bomb in 1992. The tree in front of his appartment has become a monument to him.

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These are some of the notes people place on the tree. The policeman is one of his bodyguards. They were also killed in the blast.

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Parking is a huge problem in Palermo. When somebody can’t find a spot to park they might just leave it parked on the road. The Italians call it double parking.

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This was my first stop. Bar Stancampiano in Via Notarbartolo near the train station is the best icecream place in Palermo. You haven’t tasted icecream unleass you’ve tried Stancampiano’s.

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Stancampiano inside. I had amarena and stracciatella.

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They have christmas too in Palermo. Buy your decorations here.

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This must be one of the narrowest sidewalks in the world.

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Bar Recupero in Via Malaspina is also a good icecream place.

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Most of Palermo is now concrete buildings, but there are still some nice old houses around, like this in Via Malaspina.

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On my way back I passed the Giardino Inglese, the English Garden, where Via della Libertà and Via Duca della Verdure intersect. On one side of the garden is the street where the Prefect of Palermo, Carlo Alberto dalla Chiesa and his wife were murdered by mafiosi in the 1980s. The street now bears his name. On the other side of the park is a small plaque remembering an innocent high school student who was killed when the driver of the car of some of Giovanni Falcone’s bodyguard lost control of the car when driving at high speed down the Via della Libertà.

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When traffic is bad in Palermo, it is bad. Most drivers will use the horn more that the speeder. When I’m here in Palermo on holiday the sound of horns at the nearby road intersection is usually what wakes me up :-)

Italian Commercial Neologisms

Thursday, November 15th, 2007

Italian shops are often called something ending in “-eria”. A bookshop is a libreria, from libro which means book. A pizzeria makes and sell pizze (plural of pizza), a gelateria sells gelato, icecream, and so on. An osteria sells hospitality, literally a “hostery” like in “host” :-)

Since the scheme is very simple, it is very easy to create new words this way, words that are immediately understandable, though missing in most dictionaries.

Here are a few of the ones I have stumbled upon lately.

Yogurteria
A yogurteria probably sells youghurt icecream, since it is also a gelateria. It is also a creperia from the French “crepe”, pancake. Seen in Alghero, Sardinia.

Drinkeria
A drinkeria sells drinks. It is a bar, after all. They also sell sandwiches, as it is also a panineria In Palermo, Sicily.

Pantofoleria
The word pantofole means slippers, so a pantofoleria is probably a shop specialised in slippers. Palermo, Sicily.

Cous-cousseria
Cous-cous is not only eaten in North Africa, it is also considered native to Western Sicily. Hence one should not be surprised to find a cous cousseria in Palermo, Sicily.

Mobile phones in Italy

Saturday, November 10th, 2007

I have understood from a previous post that Wendy travels without a mobile phone, and hence have limited internet access. Here is how you get a mobile phone with internet access in Italy.

There are three mobile phone operators in Italy: TIM (Telecom Italia Mobile), Wind and Vodafone.

TIM has a red/blue logo, Wind is orange and Vodafone is red/white. They have affiliated shops all over, also in smaller towns. It should be easy to find a shop for one of them.

In the shop (there will likely be at least one person who speaks English or French) ask for a cheap mobile phone (telefonino economico) with a prepaid contract (prepagato) and internet access (accesso internet).

Un telefonino economico, prepagato con accesso internet.

Internet access can be with GPRS, EDGE or UTMS. The phone must have support for Bluetooth, but I guess all have by now.

They will ask for a document of identity, for example a passport. In some cases they will also ask for an address, where I have just given the address of a friend. They won’t send anything to the address anyway.

I don’t know how much the phone itself will cost, since I had an unlocked GSM phone with me to Italy, but phones aren’t that expensive anymore. My guess is that it should be possible to find a usable phone for €100.

The prepaid account costs €10 of which €5 are for talking.

Activating a new SIM card can sometimes take a while, so be prepared to wait for a couple of hours at this point, until the phone gets a signal when turned on. When the phone is connected, return to the shop.

Internet access requires a configuration on the phone to work. The people in the shop will do that if asked. It only takes a minute or two.

Mi serve la configurazione per l’accesso al Internet, per favore.

At this point the phone should be ready to go.

Internet access with the mobile network can be expensive in Italy, but there is a plethora of ever changing discounts, offers, incentives and so on. It should be possible to get a “100MB for €20″ deal or something similar. It depends on the operator.

The Nokia Nseries N800 Internet Tablet

For use with the Nokia Nseries N800 Internet Tablet a few steps are needed to get the tablet on the Internet through the phone.

As I have managed to fry the charging circuits on my own Internet Tablet, I cannot check the correctness of the description below. It is written from memory, so please excuse me if there are inaccuracies.

On the tablet, open the Connection Manager. It is in the “Applications” menu (third from the top on the left) select “Tools” and “Connection Manager”.

In the menu of the Connection Manager (menu at the top of the display) select “Phones” and a new window should appear. Click the “New” button and let the tablet find the phone. Don’t forget to enable Bluetooth on the phone first, or it won’t be found. Once the phone is found, select it and follow the instructions to connect the two devices. It will involve entering a numeric code on one device and then the same code on the other device. Its a one time thing so I haven’t done it all that often.

Once the phone and the tablet are connected (or paired as it is called), an internet connection can be set up through the phone.

Still in the Connection Manager, select “Connections” from the menu (it might be on a sub-menu, I’m not sure) and click “New”. Follow the instructions. The tablet should ask a series of questions about the connection, the phone and the operator. The connection is a “Packet data” connection, and it should be associated with the phone. The tablet will then ask about country, operator and such. When that is done, the tablet should be able to access the internet using the mobile phone.

That should (hopefully if my memory has served me well) suffice to get back in Beach Blogging mode.

The Nokia Nseries N800 Internet Tablet isn’t a very common device yet, so it is unlikely the local mobile phone shop will be able to help with the setup, but it doesn’t hurt asking.

Team paddling experiences

Wednesday, November 7th, 2007

The four weeks I paddled in Sardinia is the longest kayak journey I have been on so far, and the first time I have travelled for so long with somebody I knew so little.

Things went very wrong between Wendy and I, and I have quite naturally given it quite a bit of thought as to why. I’m not sure it necessarily had to end like that, had we been able to handle some problems and situations better during the time we travelled together.

All interpersonal relations are inherently complex, and it doesn’t get less complex by placing those relations in a context of sea kayaking in unknown territory for long hours each day, occasionally in difficult weather conditions, while living primitively on beaches and the like. The physical and psychological stress induced further complicates matters.

The following are my thoughts on some of the areas where I think Wendy and I didn’t do very well as a team.

Please try to read this more as a “mea culpa” than as a “j’accuse“. Being the less experienced paddler of the two of us, I probably made more and graver mistakes than Wendy. Also, this is NOT an attempt to get into an online shouting match, but an attempt to share some difficult and at times painful experiences, and hopefully, hear about the experiences of others in the comments. I want to learn to be a better team paddler, so I can prevent similar unpleasant events in the future.

Information for all

It is very important that all team members know exactly where they are, where they’re going, how far there is and what conditions to expect. It sounds obvious when written like that, but we didn’t do it. I should have make sure I always had the necessary information each time we started, but I didn’t.

We only had one map case which I usually left with Wendy, even though I was offered to carry it many times. I would often just have a quick glance at the map before we left in the morning, memorise the important parts and just paddle on that, relying on Wendy for all the details during the day.

One day in particular was really bad, in large part because I had acquired too little information about our whereabouts before we started, and I was unable to get more information as we paddled on. We were on our way from Costa Paradiso along the coast. All was calm and we were tired of sitting still, so we left on a whim in spite of a forecast of F5-6 NW winds, that is from the side.

We started, had a short break before Isola Rossa, and started again towards a headland down the coast. I had gotten the impression that it was about 5-6km away, an hours paddle, though it seemed further. I discarded that observation thinking it was just a bit of mist making it look more distant. We paddled for an hour, we got a bit more wind, Wendy paddled ahead as I slowed down because my back started to ache a bit. The headland seemed just as far away as when we started. I could only see an outline of the headland as I had the sun right in front of me.

We paddled for another hour, the headland was still just an outline towards the sun and still distant. The wind grew stronger, at least F5 with average waves of 1-2m from the right, and as I had to work harder in the waves my back really started to ache.

After about 3½ hours non-stop paddle the headland was closer, but I still couldn’t see anything on it because I was blinded by the sun, I didn’t really know where we were, if we were to land at the headland or not, the wind and waves kept pushing me around and I was in quite a bit of pain. At that point I gave up fighting the waves to keep the course, and let them carry me left towards the coast so I didn’t strain my back muscles so much, and then turned the boat up into the wind using the skeg, again so I could relax my back. That brought me far away from Wendy, who had been ahead of me all the time, and she had to return to look for me. We finally landed on a small beach just under the headland after almost 4 hours non-stop paddling in rough weather.

The worst part of it wasn’t even the rough weather or my back aches, it was not knowing anything. My information on distance had been false, we paddled 16km in 4 hours, not 5-6km in one hour. I didn’t expect the wind and waves to changes dramatically in one hour, but they did in 4 hours. I had no idea about our destination. Were we to land on the headland or not? I had no possibility to acquire new information during the paddle. I was constantly blinded by the sun, so I couldn’t see a thing on the headland in front of me. Was it build up or not, was there a harbour or not? Wendy was ahead of me and as my back got sore I couldn’t catch up with her. The wind growing in strength, most communication between us was impossible anyway.

Needless to say, it wasn’t a good day on the water.

I tried in the following week to make sure I knew what was going on, and I didn’t have bad days like that again. I’d say I’ve learnt to stay informed.

Follow the slowest

A team will have to follow the slowest. If it doesn’t it won’t be a team for long.

A corollary to this rule is that all team members must accept this without complaint. The slowest team member won’t be any faster by being corrected, coerced, left trailing the rest of the team or by any other means. It will only make that person feel miserable and therefore make the team function worse.

Then, who says the slowest team member won’t one day be you.

There are many possible reasons for being slow, and it doesn’t have to have anything to do with weakness. One can be slow because the clouds in the sky have interesting shapes, or because there are beautiful rocks to look at, or because one experiments with different paddling styles, or whatever happens to not propel one forward at maximum speed.

In the little team of Wendy and I the role of the slowest paddler changed often, sometimes from day to day, sometimes from hour to hour. I was often the slowest in the days when I had back aches, but not necessarily. I did leave Wendy behind one of those days, simply because the pain was such that I wanted to get off the water as soon as possible. I just ate the pain and paddled as fast as I could. Wendy was many times the slowest because she wanted to look at rock formations and explore little coves along the coast. On a few occasions I was playing, trying to go as fast as possible, forgetting about team paddling, and I ended up several kilometres ahead of Wendy who couldn’t keep up.

Being slow is not just a matter of paddling. I’m a slow starter in the morning. It takes me half an hour to wake up and get started. There’s nothing really I can do about it, at least not without inducing a completely unnecessary level of stress in my body. Wendy is off before her eyes are fully opened.

No matter what the context, the team will have to follow the slowest or dissolve.

Patience

Following the slowest means waiting. We both discovered that waiting is an essential part of team paddling, frustrating as it may be. Different persons have different speeds, and some will always wait for somebody else.

Waiting requires patience, and lots of it.

Inability to wait patiently for the other team members to get ready or come along will cause all sorts of tensions and stress in the team. It is very, very unpleasant having to do something with others hanging over you, hurrying on you or moving your stuff around in some misguided attempt to get you to pack your boat faster. In the end things will just go slower for it.

In that sense, patience is not a virtue in team paddling, it is a necessity. An constantly impatient person is inadequate as a team paddler.

In any case, one day you’ll want the others to wait for you, so just learn to be patient.

“Mock waiting”

One particular nasty expression of impatience in team paddling is what I call “mock waiting”. I think most of us have tried it, most of us have probably done it too without thinking about the consequences.

“Mock waiting” is when the faster paddler moves ahead at his/hers preferred speed, then waits until the slower paddler has almost caught up, just to start again immediately.

Sounds innocuous, right? Let’s see what it does to the two paddlers.

The faster paddler gets to paddle at a nice, pleasant pace of his/hers own choice, interrupted by occasional breaks. These breaks might be frustrating and annoying, they are after all interruptions and they do slow you down, but they’re nevertheless still breaks where muscles and mind can relax a bit.

The slower paddler, who is always behind, experience a psychological pressure to paddle a little faster than he/she would otherwise do in the given conditions. The faster paddler exerts a pressure to move on by always being ahead. Whenever the slower paddler catches up to the waiting faster paddler, he/she starts immediately, leaving the slower paddler no time for a break and a rest. As a consequence, the slower paddler works harder for longer, without any breaks and without catching up. It is, to say it mildly, very unpleasant.

It is so easy to do without thinking about it, but it is not so nice being the slower paddler who works hard to catch up just to be left behind again immediately.

“Mock waiting” is very destructive behaviour in a team. It constantly underlines that “I’m faster and you’re slower”, while it wears the slower paddler down physically too. It can drive the slower paddler into the ground, physically and psychologically.

Mutual respect

Much of the above boils down to mutual respect between team members.

If the team members respect each other and each other’s differences, much of the above won’t happen. Respect in my book means taking the other person seriously, letting the other person have his/hers say, listening to what the other says and expresses, and taking that into account when deciding what to do.

Much of what I have written above are the results of an inability to listen to each other or an inability to let what is said influence one’s behaviour and decisions.

The short conclusion of all these words can be: don’t paddle with persons you don’t respect and don’t paddle with persons you don’t believe respect you.