Archive for March, 2009

Dear Venice, happy 1588th birthday

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

Canaletto - San GiacometoOn Annunciation Day in AD 421, on the 25th of March, three Roman tribunes from the nearby Roman city of Padova participated in the consecration of the St. Giacometo church at Rivus Altus in the Venetian lagoon, thus formally founding the city of Venice.

In the years that followed the Roman Empire broke down and Italy was invaded by barbarians, and many inhabitants of the city of Padova moved to Rivus Altus in the lagoon to escape the unrest and pillaging following the invasions, giving rise to the first city nucleus of  Venice.

The Rivus Altus means the tall brink, probably because the islands around there were just that little bit higher so the high tide didn’t flood them very often.  With time the name Rivus Altus bacame the shorter  “Rialto” which has been the commercial centre of Venice ever since.

This much is firmly founded in ancient legend.

While legends usually aren’t all real, the effects of legends can be very real, and the 25th of March has been considered the birthday of Venice since time immemorial.

Today is then the 1588th birthday of the beautiful city of Venice.  Happy Birthday.

Sardinia Circumnavigation

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009

Justine Curgenvan and Barry Shaw are almost on their way to Sardinia for a circumnavigation of the island.

They’re in for an extraordinarily beautiful journey. I wouldn’t mind doing it again :-)

Sardinia and Sicily 2007/8

I wish them the best of luck.

Theme park Venice

Thursday, March 12th, 2009

Venice used to be a big city.  Actually, it used to be a small empire, but that’s a few centuries ago now.

Venice grew slowly from 130,000 in 1861 to almost 175,000 persons in 1951, but since then the city has almost collapsed, with an exodus from the city on water to the city on land, Mestre and Marghera.  In 1961 Venice had lost 20% of the population just a decade before, and another 20% ten years later.  In 1981 the population was just over half of the 1951 level, and now the population is just around 60,000, about 1/3 of the 1951 population.

If the current trend continues the last Venetian will move away in 2040.

Most Venetians have moved to the mainland nearby, the towns of Mestre and Marghera,where you can live a “normal” life, with a house, a car, shopping malls and all the other modern amenities you don’t have so easily in the lagoon.

The population of Mestre and Marghera has grown even faster than the decline in Venice, with a recent drop. The population in the rest of the lagoon, on the Lido and the smaller islands, is mostly stable.

The population of the entire municipality of Venice, lagoon and mainland was 316,000 in 1951,

population

(Venice: blue; Lido and islands: red; mainland: yellow – source: Venice city council)

As the Venetians flee, the tourists move in.

It is hard quantify tourism in Venice. The graph below show the number of night spent in hotels, B&Bs, camp site etc, in Venice, in the lagoon and on the mainland in the last sixty year.  This is one measure, but it excludes all the day tourists who come in just for a day, by car, pullman, train or cruiseship, but there really isn’t any reliable way to count them.

tourism1

In 1951 less than half a million tourists spent just over 1,129,000 nights in hotels in the city of Venice, with another 60,000 tourists on the Lido and 49,000 on the mainland.

In 2007 there were 2,2 million tourists in Venice for 5,9 million nights, with 188,000 tourists on the Lido  and 1,3 million on the mainland.  In all there were 3,6 million tourists for almost 9 million nights.

There is no reliable way of measuring the total number of tourists in Venice, but most estimates are  between 15 and 20 millions tourists every year.

This means that currently, on an average day in Venice, there are more tourists than inhabitants, and on a busy day there are probably twice as many.

Venice is now in a situation where it is economically dependent on the high number of tourists, and as a consequence many of the  few remaining residents of the city are feeling that the city administration care more for the needs of the tourists than for the needs of the people who actually live there and who make the city live in return.

Many old traditions, such as the ancient feasts of the city, are now almost abandoned by the city dwellers and mostly attended by tourists, to an such an extent that at this years carnival groups of residents had staged their own counter carnival celebration, with an American Indian theme, to protest they way they feel they’re living in a reservation, almost as strangers in their own city.

Mamma con bambini - 23 febbraio 2009 - Pescheria Rialto
(young Venetian indians – photo by Massimo Fadalti – venessia.ning.com)

If the Venetians continue to vote with their feet as they have for over half a century now, the city of Venice will become little more than a fancy theme park.

Poor gondolieri

Wednesday, March 11th, 2009

The gondolieri of Venice are a poor bunch, working day and night and hardly managing to scrape a living out of their business.

Paddling with gondolasThere are only about 400 professional gondolieri prowling the canals of the city with tourists. The official rate is €80 for 40 minutes, and a further €40 for 20 minutes more. This is, still officially, for the boat, not per passenger. The rate is higher in the evening.

Even at these prices, and even though we all see gondolas working all the time, sometimes so many they block the canals, they still cannot make ends meet.

According to the 2005 data (the most recent available) from the Italian tax agency a gondoliere in Venice on the average only make €16,000 a year. That means that the averange gondoliere only has one paying customer a day, for 200 days a year, provided they don’t do evening tours or anything longer than 40 minutes.

In fact, being a gondoliere is such a poor business that the municipality has to subsidise the Ente Gondola – the association of gondolieri in Venice – to the sum of €1,000,000 each year.

A gondola is an expensive boat, between €20,000 and  €50,000 as new, and they do require some maintenance, but high costs of acquisition and maintenance is not the cause of gondoliere poverty.

The real reason for gondoliere poverty is that the Italian law explicitly does not require them to give the client a receipt.

Venezia. Gondolieri, scatta l’indagine sui beni: una decina di “pope” nel mirino

III Symposium Internacional de Kayak de Mar

Wednesday, March 4th, 2009

pagaia-sympo09-logoSo, now we have signed up for the symposium in Spain – the III Symposium Internacional de Kayak de Mar - held in Llança/Port de la Selva in Catalonia on April 4-5-6 followed by additional activities in the following week, until April 12.

We’ll be going to Spain by motorcycle through Germany and France and we’ll stay for the symposium and a few days extra, just to hang out and enjoy the place.  We’ve rented kayaks from Pau at SK Kayak in Llança and we’ll share a bungalow in the Port de la Vall camp site with some Sicilian friends.

carcassonne-vignesOnce all the symposium fun is over we’ll take a short Easter holiday in Southern France, still by motorcycle.  I have always had a predilection for old things, and I want to see the walls of Carcasonne, the Roman ruins in and around Nimes, such as the Maison Carrée and the Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman acqueduct over the Gard river.  If we can find it, I’d like to go to Montaillou too, even though I don’t think there’s much to see anymore except the ruins of the castle.  In any case, I don’t think we’ll be bored with all of Languedoc and Provence to explore. Neither of us have ever been there, unless you count driving straight through two years ago.

After Easter we both have to head back to work.  Valentina returns to Denmark by plane, and I take the motorcycle to Venice to start up the 2009 season of Venice Kayak tours.