Category: Venice Kayak

Venice Kayak was my kayaking company in Venice, Italy.

  • Kayaking ban in Venice

    Kayaking ban in Venice

    The City of Venice has published a modification to the city traffic rules, which bans kayaks, canoes, dragon boats and others from navigating certain canals.

    The relevant text is this:

    Nei Rii principali interni di collegamento: Canal Grande, Cannaregio, Giardini, Greci – San Lorenzo, Santa Giustina – Sant’Antonin – Pietà, Noale, Novo, Ca’ Foscari, Santi Apostoli – Gesuiti, è vietata la navigazione dei natanti denominati jole, dragon boat, pattini, pedalò, canoe, kayak e tavole a vela e/o a remi.

    It lists a series of city canals where  “navigation is prohibited” for a series of paddled and rowed types of boats.

    Navigation is prohibited

    The canals in question are these, coloured red.

    Canals in Venice where kayaks are banned.

    Now, besides the Grand Canal it doesn’t look excessive. There are a few other restrictions on traffic, not specifically targeted at kayaks and the like, for military areas, heavy traffic, or dedicated areas for the gondolas.

    With these added (in violet) the map of the no-go canals become:

    Venice restricted areas for kayaks etc.

    The canal network in Venice is Medieval in origin, and anything but regular. Some are very interconnected, others are detached from most others. A lot of very narrow canals lead down to some of the no-go canals, so if you went down there in a kayak, you wouldn’t be able to get out legally.

    Therefore, the ban is for more than just the listed canals. The de facto banned canals are added to this map in orange.

    Venice canals where kayaks won't be able to go legally.

    Now, that’s a good deal more.

    If you enter one of these nominally ‘legal’ canals, you won’t be able to get out again, unless you paddled backwards through a narrow, winding and possible busy canal.

    The above map is made under the assumption that “navigation is prohibited” in the canals marked in red, which would mean that you can’t even paddle across.

    If the city were to allow crossing of some of the no-go canals in some places, the map above would have to be changed, but with the current wording of the regulation, it will not be possible to go in kayak in any of the canals on the map above, which are marked in red, violet or orange.

    I realise that it is hard to see from that map where you can actually go, so I have made the reverse map which shows in green the canals where you can go in a kayak and still have a legal way out.

    Venice canals where you can paddled after March 1st.

    As is apparent, after the introduction of the new regulations you can only paddle in a few separate and non contiguous areas of the city.

    As before, this map relies on a strict interpretation of the wording of the new regulations, where we’re not allowed to traverse any of the no-go canals.

    There are six distinct zones, where you’ll need to get out of the city canals, potentially in some very busy waters, to get from one area to another.

    Safety issues

    The two areas in Dorsoduro (marked in a darker green) are only accessible through the Canale Giudecca, which is where the big cruise ships pass. It is a very busy canal, and not safe for even intermediary level kayakers.

    To move from the eastern part (Castello basso) to the central part around San Marco, it will be necessary to cross the Bacino San Marco, which is likewise very busy. Besides a large number of water buses and taxis, this area is also full of large tourist tour boats, which moor there for boarding and disembarking. Paddling through there will too require a good deal of skill and nerves.

    And let’s remember the new rules are introduced for safety reasons.

    To keep us and everybody else safe, they send us out in the middle of the busiest parts of the city.  And not just busy, but busy with far larger boats that are ever allowed inside the city, even on the Grand Canal.

    Curious as to why they have decide this? Look here.

    Links and documents:

  • Lonely Planet video

    Lonely Planet video

    Lonely Planet visited us in Venice a while ago, and produced this little video.

    My only grievance is that the tide was so low that day. The city is much nicer when the water is higher.

  • High tide in Venice

    High tide in Venice

    We’ve had several days with high water lately here in Venice. Not extreme high water, but enough to be a burden for the locals and an amusement for the tourists.

    The city canals are very quiet when the tide goes above a certain level, as most boats can no longer pass under the bridges, and we had planned to go paddling to enjoy having the city’s waterways mostly to ourselves.

    First thing to notice is that at high tide there is quite a bit of rubbish and other stuff floating around, like this part of a bridge or dock.

    Floating debris

    Give the lack of traffic we quickly gravitated towards San Marco, here from the front.

    View of St. Mark's

    Here’s a gondola stuck under a bridge by the rising water, just behind Piazza San Marco.

    This gondola isn't going anywhere

    This is the view from the canal behind the square onto the Piazza San Marco. This is the lowest point level entry to the square, but there is far to little water to do any kind of stupidity.

    Passage to the Piazza San Marco

    I got out of the kayak and walked in though the water and found this view.

    The Piazza San Marco under water

    Flooding in Piazza San Marco starts in front of the basilica at a very normal level of 75-80cm, and at a level of 110cm there are up to 30cm of water on parts of the square.

    Just because you can paddle in, doesn’t mean you can’t get in. While I was surveying the situation, one of the others came in pulling the kayaking along, just to get a few photos.

    Piazza San Marco with one kayak

    One then drags the next person in.

    Piazza San Marco with another kayak arriving

    While not exactly legal, the situation does create some photo ops.

    Which a good deal of others onlookers weren’t late to spot.

    The others waited patiently for those fifteen minutes of fame (or infamy) to pass.

    Others care a bit less

    While tourists in their tourist high water protection gear watched baffled.

    Tourists in tourist boots

    After San Marco the tour went to the Grand Canal and the Rialto where the Erberia was covered in a bit of water.

    Kayaks at the Rialto - Erberia

    Somebody managed to get interviewed by national television (again).

    Intervista
    (screencapture from a video)

    On our way back, passing San Marco again, we met this gondola.

    Porcelino sulla gondola

    Which carried a rather untraditional addition to the stern.

    Porcelino sulla gondola

    The water level was still high, and the gondola couldn’t pass the first bridge after the Bridge of Sighs, and had to turn around while we waited.

    Gondola turning around because it cannot pass the bridge

    Most of the fondamenta (sidewalks) had water up at the edge, which usually corresponds to a water level of between 100cm and 110cm.

    Water still at street level
  • Reflections in Venice

    Reflections in Venice

    Throughout October we’ve had some fantastic reflections in the water. Less traffic and a different light are probably the main reasons.
  • Early May in Venice

    Early May in Venice

    A few photos from a recent paddle through Venice.
  • January paddle

    January paddle

    Venice Kayak doesn’t really do many tours in the winter, but we’ve had a few in the last few weeks. Yesterday’s paddle was on a foggy day, postponed from the day before which was even foggier, so we ended up doing a rather different tour as we couldn’t do some of the open water passages that we otherwise do. January 6th, Epiphany, is called the Befana here. She’s an old witch who’ll bring gifts to the good children and charcoal to the naughty ones. We spotted her flying over Rio San Giuseppe. La befana in Rio San Giuseppe Here we’re in the Bacino San Marco, with the island San Giorgio Maggiore in the background to the left, and you can just glimpse San Marco and the campanile in front of the kayaks. p1000852 Rio dei Greci boasts one the leaning towers of Venice. We hardly ever go there as the canal is badly infested by taxis, but there were few yesterday. Rio dei Greci The Rio della Canonica, or the Rio di Palazzo, which is just behind the Palazzo Ducale, usually suffers from gondola congestion, but that too was rather quiet yesterday, so we had a chance to paddle under the Bridge of Sighs and even get a few photos. Under the Bridge of Sighs Our guide Loretta never loses an opportunity to race a gondola in front of San Marco. Loretta overtaking a gondola at San Marco I don’t race much. I’m too slow, so I just enjoy the view. In front of San Marco Dodging a few airport shuttles we reach the lower Canal Grande. At the end of the Canal Grande with the Punta della Dogana And the Madonna della Salute (there’s supposed to be 1,1 mio tree trunks underneath the foundations). On the Grand Canal with Madonna della Salute Here we’re further up the Canal Grande, at the beautiful gothic Palazzo Bernardo from the 15th century. On the Canal Grande And in the narrow Rio della Madoneta. Rio della Madoneta There was very little traffic in the city, so we only met the occasional gondola on the tour. Gondola up close Here we’re in the Rio de la Panada, passing the late 14th century Palazzo Van Axel. Rio della Panada, Palazzo Van Axel Passing under the low bridge in front of the monumental entrance to the Arsenale (the ancient Venetian navy docks) is always good fun, but the tide was rather low. Passing the bridge at the Arsenale Loretta made it too. Loretta at the Arsenale gate The Rio de l’Arsenal is always good a few photos. They sure knew how to make monuments back in those days. Rio de l'Arsenal Our guide Loretta kept creeping up in front of the camera. Loretta in the Rio de l'Arsenal And again. Here entering the Bacino San Marco, still with a good deal of fog. Loretta in Bacino San Marco foggy We continued around the Arsenale with its imposing walls. Close to the eastern end of the Arsenale there’s an old altar in the wall. Altare in Rio delle Vergine The church of San Pietro di Castello is the former cathedral of Venice, with the old residence of the patriarch to the right. Here too is one of the learning towers of Venice. Loretta at San Pietro de Castello While we cannot enter the Arsenale from the monumental gate, it is easy to paddle in from the Porta da mar, the gate to the sea, with the huge old mast crane. Entering the Arsenale The area here is the darsena grande and its where the Serenissima build and maintained the navy the ruled the eastern Mediterranean for centuries. Inside the Arsenale, darsena grande The galleandre are covered areas where they could work on the innards of the ships once the hull was floating but for the rigging was mounted. René inside the Arsenale The tese were covered areas used for laying up the keel and building the hulls of the ships. Now most are used by companies taking part in the building of the flood gates which should protect the city from excessive flooding (but not from rampant corruption). René inside the Arsenale Along the sides of the Arsenale you can still see the rings used to mooring the ships during the different phases of construction. Lion of San Marco, Arsenale Leaving the Arsenale through the gate to the sea. Bacino San Marco on a foggy day Our base on the Certosa island is under the fog just in front of the paddlers.
  • Reflection

    Reflection

    image Nothing particular, just a nice reflection
  • Valley Pintail – the very last

    Valley Pintail – the very last

    In July I was on a brief visit to Canada and Michigan where I participated in the Great Lakes Sea Kayak Symposium. On one of the tours I was on there was a beautiful three-part almost golden Valley Pintail, and the owner, a local coach named Belinda, let me have a go in it in the waves. It was such a fantastic boat. A few weeks later, again back in Venice, I spotted a notice on a British blog that Valley Sea Kayaks would terminate a bunch of older Valley models, including the Pintail:
    Valley Sea Kayaks have just announced that they are intending to rationalise their range of sea kayaks. … The result of this rationalisation process is that certain models are to be discontinued permanently. The last date for placing orders with Valley is the 31st of August this year so anyone considering purchasing one of the soon-to-be discontinued models has just over a week to make a decision and place an order.
    I wrote to them, and Joshua from Valley answered by email:
    Yes this is true, the Pintail will be discontinued at the end of this month.
    So, I had a few days to decide if I wanted a Pintail or not. There’s no Valley dealer in Italy, which complicated matters a bit, but in the end I ordered a Pintail through Kajakhotellet in Copenhagen, and they were very fast in getting the order in before closing time. Hopefully I’ll get it in the colours of the ancient Venetian flag, which is orange and wine red, with lots of glitter, so it’ll be really flashy when I’m paddling down the Canal Grande at sunset 🙂 I had already started to gloat just for the anticipation of it 🙂 Then, just the other day, Anders of Kajakhotellet posted this on my Facebook:
    Hi René, just wanted to let you know that we talked to the Valley Sea Kayaks guys at the Paddle expo in Nürnberg, and your new Pintail (in Venice colours) is the last Pintail in the world! They threw in a Kevlar keelstrip just to celebrate…. and then they chopped up the mould 😉
    So apparently my Pintail will be the very last ever made. It will be a historic boat in a historic city.
  • I Want Your Outdoor Job: René Seindal, Owner of Venice Kayak | paddlinginstructor.com

    I Want Your Outdoor Job: René Seindal, Owner of Venice Kayak | paddlinginstructor.com

    David H. Johnston of the Paddling Instructor blog have published an interview with me in the series “I Want Your Outdoor Job” series on the blog. I’m deeply honoured. via I Want Your Outdoor Job: René Seindal, Owner of Venice Kayak | paddlinginstructor.com.
  • Kayaking anniversary in Venice

    Kayaking anniversary in Venice

    At this time, five years ago, I came to Venice for the first time to kayak. I had only been to Venice a two previous occasions, and only for short one day visits.

    Being married at the time to an Italian, most holidays would automatically go to Italy, and I had been searching for interesting places to go paddling in Italy for a while. One day in 2006 I was looking at online maps of Italy, following the coast line starting from the west, taking notes about interesting places to go paddling, and at the very end of this virtual journey my finger reached the northernmost part of the Adriatic coast.

    My interest and curiosity was immediately arisen.

    Everybody has an image in their head of this iconic city, and as soon as my mental image of Venice, and my wish to go kayaking in interesting places connected immediately and I couldn’t let go of the idea of kayaking in Venice.

    An initial search for outfitters, kayak rental places, local kayaking clubs and such found nothing. After a very persistent search I finally found names and email addresses of 6 or 7 persons, and I wrote an email to all of them. The only one who answered my email was Marco, my now business partner in Venice Kayak.

    Marco lent some equipment to me and my friend Jes, and we came down too Venice for one week in late June 2007. We stayed in a camp site on the Lido di Venezia which Marco knew about, and he gave us some maps and a bit of instructions before we set out on our little adventure.

    We moved slowly the first day, and we just paddled around the islands closest to the camp site, Sant’Andrea, the Vignole and Certosa where Venice Kayak is based now. We only ventured into the very closest parts of Venice, the area around San Piero de Casteo.

    The next day we paddled around the Lido, and we didn’t even get close to the city. From the camp site we paddled around the northern end of the Lido into the Adriatic Sea, fifteen kilometres south and back into the lagoon at Malamocco, returning north on the opposite side of the Lido. It was rather longer that we had anticipated, and we returned around the time of sunset after a paddle of some 35km.

    On the third day we took the vaporetto into the city and walk around, doing normal touristy stuff.

    Thinking back, we must have been a bit intimidated by the prospect of paddling into the city centre. We certainly took our time. It seems silly now that I spend so much of my time roaming around the canals of Venice in a kayak, but the first time wasn’t that easy.

    Only on the fourth day of our stay here did we finally venture into Venice centre by kayak. Looking at the photos now its quite amusing how many of the interesting places we found straight away. We paddled past the old cathedral San Piero de Casteo, past the Arsenale, in front of St. Mark’s, had lunch at SS. Giovanni e Paolo, did a good deal of the Canal Grande, up to the station and Piazzale Roma, down the Canale Giudecca, past some of the squeri (gondola shipyards). We came back with loads of photos, some of them are still among the best I have, and a good deal of video which we later used to promote the first tours we made to Venice the same autumn.

    Based on the photos that I have, we must have spend some eight or nine hours paddling that day, criss-crossing the city.

    After our Venetian padding adventure, we headed for the islands north of Venice. First to Burano to look at the glass works there, which left much more of an impression on Jes than on me, and from there north to Mazzorbo and Burano where we had a short walk to enjoy the spectacle of the multi-coloured houses of the island. Burano has ever since been one of my favourite places in the lagoon.

    That was the last day we paddled in Venice that June. The day after we took the vaporetto to the Vignole islands to check out a trattoria we had spotted paddling by the day before. It was quite good, and became a common stop on our evening paddles in the following years.

    We went home with thousands of photos, and a good deal of video, which we used to promote a second tour to Venice in September 2007. There was only a handful, but that too went well, and with more experience, photos and video, we started promoting tours for September next year. Those tours were sold out in early January.

    That left me with a problem. I had promised to sort out the logistics of equipment and accommodation, and we needed gear for 15 persons for two weeks. I couldn’t find that anywhere, so in the end I decided to buy the equipment needed, and thus Venice Kayak was born.

  • Self Portrait

    Self Portrait

    image

    From above (or below)

    If it is possible to truly love a kayak I love my Skim Dex. It is probably the seat I sit in the most from April to October.

  • Evening Paddling in Venice

    Evening Paddling in Venice

    image

    Its very hard doing justice to the experience of paddling down the Canal Grande after dark, with only a cheap point-and-shoot camera, but I’m not going to bring my SLR in a kayak.

    image image image image