Tag: Venice

  • Mestre

    Mestre

    It’s time to get some of the nitty-gritty details of the Venice Kayak project done, so I’m now in Mestre where my business partner Marco Ballarin lives. It is our plan to get some of the basic formalities and agreements in order in the next week or two. Hopefully we can get going in May. The city of Mestre is a nice place, but quite overshadowed by the nearby Venice. The city’s roots are in the Middle Ages, when Treviso made a fortress here to counter the influence of Venice on the mainland. In the 14th century Venice expanded onto the mainland anyway, and took control of Mestre. Mestre became the main point of entry for all trade between the city in the lagoon and the mainland, and flourished. The city walls were completely destroyed in a battle in the 16th century, and only one tower of the original wall is still standing, the Torre dell’Orologio. In modern times Mestre has become the industrial and commercial centre for Venice and for much of the surrounding area too. A huge industrial harbour now exists south of the old city, at Porto Marghera, and loads of industry has followed too, causing Mestre to grow in all directions, so Mestre now has its own suburbs around the old city centre. The old city centre is still where one goes for entertainment and an evening out. The area around Piazza Ferretto and Via Palazzo is full of bars, cafés, restaurants, cinemas and ice cream places, and the piazza’s and small roads are full of people in the evening. A major issue in Italian cities is vivibilità, the “livability” of the cities. Congestion is often so bad that people spend hours each day coping with problems of traffic, parking, garbage and other daily problems. Mestre must have a very high vivibilità index. Much of the city centre is almost entirely closed off to motorised traffic, leaving ample space for pedestrians and bicyclists. Traffic seems manageable, and I still haven’t seen a real traffic jam here. People can find parking spaces for their car without driving in circles for half an hour, and the city in general seems clean and well kept. Compared to many other Italian cities, both in the North and in the South, Mestre is a small paradise. They even have something very rare here in Italy. They have bike lanes throughout most of the city. You can almost go anywhere on a well protected bike lane, and in some places they have converted streets into combined pedestrian and bicycle roads, with no cars whatsoever.

    I have taken the consequence of this and today I bought myself a bicycle. I am probably (and hopefully) going to spend a lot of time here in Venice, both on the Lido, in Venice proper and here in Mestre and surroundings, and a bicycle does seem to be the perfect means of transport both here in Mestre and on the Lido. Bicicles are, like other forms of wheeled transportation, banned in Venice except for the limited area of Piazzale Roma. Yesterday I went for a long walk to the new Parco San Giuliano, an absolutely huge public park on an area bordering on the lagoon near the bridge leading to Venice. There too Mestre has got it right. Making a huge park on the outskirts of town is not enough, it must also be easily accessible. At the main entrances to the park there are large parking areas, and a pedestrian bridge leads over the large intersection of roads in front of the park, giving easy access by foot and bicycle. The Viale San Marco, which connects the city centre and entrance to the park, has been equipped with wide side walks and bicycle lanes, so everybody can get to and from the park in safety. Food here in Italy is something quite different from what we find in Denmark. Here fruit and vegetables actually have taste, and there’s a multitude of cheeses and fresh fish I have never seen in Denmark. For most Italians food is one of the most important things in life, not just in the sense of fuel for the body. Italians enjoy eating together, and a meal can easily take three hours and some will still consider it a bit rushed. These photos are from a plain run-of-the-mill supermarket here in Mestre, nothing special.

    All in all, Mestre is a very nice place to stay.
  • On the road again

    I’m on the train from Genoa to Venice via Milan right now. I have a bunch of posts to prepare and loads of photos to upload from the week Valentina and I spent in Sardinia with Francesco Muntoni and his family and friends. Francesco kept us on such a breathtaking schedule that I haven’t had a chance to finish much, but I will try to work off the backlog in the coming days.
  • Venice Dried Out

    Venice Dried Out

    An extraordinary low tide left parts of the old town almost blocked yesterday, with canals dried out, gondolas stuck in the mud, and public transportation in difficulties.

    Venice low tide

    An ordinary low tide in Venice is between -40cm and -30cm but this one reached -72cm when it was at its lowest. At -60cm transportation in the city started to suffer, and the municipal tidal office was sent into a frenzy, trying to keep the city going. Gondolas and taxis got stuck in the mud and couldn’t go anywhere, and even in Canal Grande there were problems. The floating “bus stops” of the vaporetti became so inclined the boats could hardly moor and passengers had difficulty getting on and off the busses.

    Venice low tide Venice low tide

    The morning low today only reached -14cm, but the afternoon low is expected to reach -68cm, promising another problematic day for the Serenissima. Source: La Nuova di Venezia e Mestre. More photos: Bassa marea – barche a secco.
  • Busy Busy

    Busy Busy

    It’ll be a busy day in Venice today. The day did, however, have a less auspicious start. As I was having breakfast at the camping at little thing dropped on the table just beside me. It was … imgp0225.jpg … the severed head of a bee! There must have been some really nasty business going on up there between the leaves, but as I was busy too, I didn’t crawl up there to investigate. I’ll have my temporary passport today if all goes well. I have the photos ready, and everything should be ready at the consulate too. I’m off to the vaporetto for the city in a moment. The battery of my Nokia N800 Internet Tablet has died. It is not the new one sponsored by Nokia Nseries, but the one I have had for quite some time. I had it recharging all day yesterday and its still flat. Apparently its a slightly special battery, because the shops here on the Lido don’t have it. I hope I can find one, I’ve gotten so used to always having it with me. Then I have to rent a car with a roof rack so we can transport the kayaks on the roof, book the ferry to Sardinia and pick up Wendy at the airport. Then tomorrow, we’ll be paddling together in the lagoon and in the city. Then, lets hope the bees back at the camping have had their internal affairs sorted out before we’re back.
  • Just another day in the lagoon

    Today I went paddling in the lagoon with my Venetian friend Marco and his friend Damien from Padova. We didn’t have any particular plans, just paddle and have fun. Here’s Damien in his rusty old kayak And here’s Marco in the Current Design Solstice that Wendy is going to paddle around Sardinia (Marco has a weakness for playing with lagoon mud 🙂 Here Marco is having a lot of fun throwing mud at Damiens kayak Its some thick yucky stuff and Damien isn’t amused but cannot retaliate because Marco is paddling a borrowed kayak. Dirty tricks in the lagoon, literally. I just got stuck in the sticky stuff The tide in the lagoon was exceptionally low today Marco and Damian had a romantic moment in front of Burano Then some lagoon pirates came along, playing loud music Marco chased them off with his paddle, but the mood was ruined anyway At the end, just at the entrance to the lagoon, we met this really cool guy in an incredible good looking boat Any good day in the lagoon will end with a sunset and so did this
  • Change of plans

    Change of plans

    Any adventure involves coping with the unexpected and the unforeseen. Unfortunately, I have had a solid dose of unexpected and unforeseen even before the start of our journey, as I lost all my personal and vehicle documents on the way to Italy two weeks ago.

    I left Denmark early to guide a group of Danish kayakers on a week long trip to Venice and the lagoon, but became stuck in Venice afterwards waiting for temporary identification documents and new credit cards without which it would be difficult to proceed. This situation should be solved by Monday September 24 when I will get a temporary passport at the consulate.

    Due to these delays I haven’t been able to join up with Wendy in Palermo as planned. Instead Wendy will join me in Venice on Monday, and after a day’s paddle in the city and the lagoon, we will proceed to Civitavecchia near Rome, where we will take the ferry to Cagliari. Our journey will therefore commence with a few days delay, on the morning of Thursday September 27 when the ferry arrives in Cagliari.

    Needless to say, I have thoroughly enjoyed my prolonged stay in Venice, and I hope Wendy will enjoy her short stay here too, but we are both itching to get started on a journey we’ve been planning for months.

  • The Giudecca

    The Giudecca

    Today’s paddle me took to the Giudecca of Venice. It used to be an industrial area with housing for working class families, there’s quite a bit of run down houses and abandoned factories and shipyards. New houses on the south side of the Giudecca. imgp9910-modified.jpg Older, but nice looking houses in the Giudecca. imgp9940.jpg Abandonded shipyard buildings on the Guidecca. imgp9961.jpg Overgrown factory buildings just next to the posh Hilton hotel. imgp0009.jpg And today’s surprise: I happed to find the Associazione Canottieri Giudecca by chance. It is the local paddling/rowing club. They had some very old kayaks, like the ones I saw yesterday, some newer boats but must of their effort clearly went into Voga alla Veneta, the Venetian way of rowing standing up and pushing the oar. These must be their best sports gondolas for regattas and for the Vogalunga. Unfortunately there wasn’t anybody there when I passed by. imgp9923.jpg
  • Little surprises in the lagoon

    Little surprises in the lagoon

    Today’s paddle became rather special, for a number of reasons. I started in the afternoon after a morning’s hard work at the internet café. Their coffee is appallingly good, but paddling need to be done. First thing, I encountered the first paddler ever in the lagoon, except of course Marco who always complains that nobody else paddles in Venice. Apparently he’s wrong. Somebody has been rummaging in the old shed to find grandpa’s old kayak and paddle. Nice guy, though, and he enjoyed his paddle just as much as I did. Paddler in the lagoon The plan was to paddle to Torcello, and on the way I got entangled in a maze of little channels in the lagoon, from where I got my first close view of Torcello. Torcello seen from the lagoon Lo and behold, there was another paddler! The lagoon was positively swarming with paddlers today. Another grandpa boat, obviously, but he had good fun too. Its not what you have, its what you do with it that matters. Another paddler in the lagoon Finally I arrived at Torcello, unfortunately too late to enter and see the church inside. That’ll be another time. Torcello close up The island of Torcello also has it’s little pretty corners. Detail from Torcello Passing Burano on my way back, it once again surprised me with its multitude of colours. Every house is different, every corner turned is a new experience. Burano always surprises Yet another little display of vivid colour at Burano. This corner is near the main square of the village. More Burano colours On my way back, as I’m starting to hurry not to be caught by darkness, I paddled into the most astonishing sunset. The low sun over the placid waters in the lagoon was spectacular. Lagoon sunset Another sunset shot, taken on the east coast of the island of Sant’Erasmo. More lagoon sunset I managed to get back to the Lido just after sunset so I didn’t have to cross the busy entrance of the lagoon in darkness. Most embarrassingly, when I returned to the bridge in front of the camping, I slipped on the steps and fell in the water, just in front of a local fisherman. He helped me up and asked politely if it was the first time I fell in the water that day 🙂
  • Life at the Lido

    So today I’ve spent most of the time sitting at Café Maleti on the Gran Viale of the Lido, updating blogs and doing email. Life is hard, but they do make good coffee and food, and absolutely great icecream.

    Voga al veneta in a Caorlina
    Voga al veneta in a Caorlina

    Then I have to stand the pathetic view across to the lagoon to Venice each and every day on my way to the ‘office’ at Bar Maleti. I don’t know how I can stand it, but I guess when you have no choice you learn to cope.

    We’ve got a few new sponsors for our journey. ODLO has sent us a package of underwear, Tec shirts and jackets. Wendy will bring it with her to Venice later. North Water has sent Wendy a large package of deck bags, tow lines and other good stuff, including a huge mesh duffel bag Wendy seems to be in love with :-). Last, Hilleberg, the Tentmaker, has given us a very good discount on a good size light weight tent for the journey.

    Now, for the rest of the day, I think I will go back to the camping, and go paddling for the afternoon. A good paddle up Sant’Erasmo to Burano and Torcello wouldn’t be bad for a sunny afternoon on the Lido. In the evening I might go to the local trattoria for a pizza.

  • Camping San Nicolò

    Camping San Nicolò

    I’m still stuck in Venice waiting for documents and credit cards so I can continue my journey. Naturally, it’s a downer being stuck somewhere when you expected to be somewhere else, but there are worse places to be stuck than on the Lido of Venice. Camping San Nicolò, bar and reception with banana palmI’m staying at the Camping San Nicolò at the northern end of the Lido. While it is formally only a one star camping, it is still one of the very best camping sites I have ever stayed in. The owner, Paolo, and his assistants Tatiana and Natasha are all smiles and helpfulness, and the site itself is more like a garden than a camping. There are pomegranates, bananas, grapes and a plethora of other plants I can’t recognise. Camping San Nicolò, pomegranate and bananaThe sanity facilities are basic, but always clean. There’s a fridge free to use, a large tent to sit in, a little bar for a coffe or a drink. They rent out bikes for a few euros so it’s easy to get around on the Lido. Often the little things make a large difference. It is such a luxury taking a shower without having to worry that the time will run out just has you have shampoo in your hair. When living in a tent, having a fridge in the camping is huge. It means you can buy milk and cheese. Having stayed there for over a week I haven’t got one bad thing to say about the place. It might have just one star in the public books but it has five stars in my book.

    Camping San Nicolò Camping San Nicolò Camping San Nicolò, my tent and tarp

  • Skim in Venice

    Skim in Venice

    Here are some photos of the new Skim Distance in Venice and surroundings.

    The Skim Distance parked besides a very busy inner city canal.

    Parked with gondolas

    Paddling in front of the city just east of St. Mark’s Square.

    In front of the city

    Parked on the side of the main canal at Murano.

    Parked downtown Murano

    Paddling with Maria in the lagoon of Venice near the island of S. Erasmo.

    In the lagoon at S. Erasmo

    Among the multicoloured houses of Burano there was one with exactly the same colours as my Skim Distance.

    Skim coloured house at Burano or vice versa

    Doing a slightly illegal foray into the military area of the Arsenale.

    In the Arsenale of Venice

    Still transgressing on military areas with impunity

    In the Arsenale of Venice

    My venetian friend Marco wanted to try the Skim Distance and immediately took a liking to it. The expression on his face says it all: don’t try to take it away from me!

    You're not getting it back!

  • Now bad weather too

    When the last participants from Kajakhotellet’s tour to Venice left yesterday, most were complaining about returning to the gloomy weather of the cold North. We had brilliant weather all week, sunshine and temperatures of 25-30º C. Had they known how the weather would change. Right now I’m sitting in my underwear under a canopy at the camping with a bunch of other equally wet and cold persons. It’s pouring down accompanied by occasional thunder and lightning. I had just finished the normal camping chores, cleaning the tent, putting everything in its right bag, doing the laundry, and the rain started just as I was taking a shower. When it stops I’ll see how wet everything is now.